Thursday, July 24, 2008

Ireland: Brug Na Boine or Newgrange



Behold the Sidh before your eyes
It is manifest to you that it is a king's mansion
Which was built by the firm Dadga
It was a wonder, a court, an admirable hill

(traditional Irish poet, Mac Nia
Book of Ballymote)



The Visitor Center at Newgrange/Brug na Boine: Notice how it was constructed to blend in with the surrounding scenery.


A Closer View of The Visitor Center


The Entrance to Newgrange


Branwenn at Newgrange-just to prove I was really here--LOL:):)


The much photographed carved stone in front of Newgrange.


Branwenn standing in front of immense Celtic cross in the Newgrange Visitor's Center.


Brug na Boine or Brugh-na-Boyne, known today as Newgrange, is the most famous “fairy hill” in Ireland. These passages were called sidhe and were actually barrows or hillocks, with square doorways decorated with Celtic spirals patterns. These were the doorways that, according to legend, led into the Celtic Elysium, an underground land of unending splendor and delight. One description of Brugh na Boine, the largest of these hillforts, which the son of the Dagda, Angus Mac Og, craftily cheated his father out of having as his own residence, had a wonderful party-all-the-time description that will delight many of us with Celtic blood. “There were apple trees always in fruit, one pig alive and another ready roasted, and the supply of ale never failed.”

Newgrange is located about five Irish miles from Drogheda. It was thought to have been built even before the pyramids in Egypt. On the banks of the Boyne River are 17 barrows—three of which are well known. These are Knowth, Dowth and the largest of the three, Newgrange. Once they were mythologised to be the homes of the Celtic Gods, now they serve as their barrows or tombs. Newgrange is the largest and best preserved. It is over 300 feet in diameter and 70 feet high. The grassy top forms an earthen platform 120 feet across. All three of these barrows were ransacked by the Danes in the ninth century.

Once through the doorway, you enter a long narrow passage of about 60 feet and not much higher than six feet. Most have to duck in places where the floor rises and the ceiling does not keep pace with the incline. The passage goes uphill at a slight grade and gradually widens and opens into a central chamber with a cone-shaped dome of about 20 feet. On both sides of the chamber is a recess containing a shallow oval basin. The recesses are decorated with many of the spiral shapes that have become associated with the ancient Celts, but it is thought that Newgrange was built by a prehistoric people that inhabited Ireland centuries before the Celts.

Newgrange is one of the most amazing sites of all of my travels to different sacred archaeological sites around the world. This megalithic passage tomb covers over an acre and was constructed around 3200 B.C. Buried for centuries, the mound was rediscovered in 1699 and was restored starting in 1962. At the winter solstice, the rising sun shines down a long passage and lights up a cross-shaped chamber. Viewing winter solstice at this amazing site has a waiting list which is chosen by lots and booked ahead for years.

A wonderful "live" webcast of the 2007 winter solstice at was put out by the The Office of Public Works An archive of this event is now available below. To view you will need to have Windows Media Player. The following link will open a pop-up window to display the webcast. If you have problems opening this link, please ensure that you have pop-ups enabled.

http://www.servecast.com/opw/211207/archive150.html

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Standing Stones of Callanish









Traveling to see the Standing Stones of Callanish was the whole point of my trip to Scotland. It was more than two weeks into my trip and I still hadn't gotten there. The distractions along the way: Loch Lomond, Aberdeen, Stonehaven, Inverbervie, my new friend John, Inverness, Loch Ness, my new boyfriend, Mark, the heather, the gorse, the fresh air and the scones were all pleasant distractions to say the least, but I was a woman with a sacred calling. It was time to listen to the call of the mist as Mananan, Lord of the Sea’s horses ran through the spume of ocean off the Isle of Lewis.

After our trip around Loch Ness, Mark and I took the bus to Ullapool from Inverness. From Ullapool, we took the ferry to Stornoway. The Caledonian MacBrayne Ferry was a tourist hot spot of its own for us. We had an absolutely fabulous time weaving and wobbling across the deck as we explored the ship from one side to the other. The sea was not too rough on this day, but we still saw one or two people”heaving-ho” over the rail of the ship. Taking an ocean-going ferry like this is a great way to decide whether you are prone to being seasick. Of course, we were having so much fun that neither of us was sick a bit. The trip was gorgeous. It was very windy on the deck, so we didn’t stay too long, but I have been partial to taking the ferry ever since. I found that this is one of the best ways to travel in Europe and the British Isles.

We stayed at Caladh Inn in Stornoway. This hotel was very nice, but rather pricey for a poor couple. I paid the extra money because I had heard all the horror stories about accommodations without proper facilities on the Outer Hebrides. This was in 1996, so I would hope it has improved by now. The hotel had a great club next door, so we went to karaoke that night and I was pleasantly surprised to find that Mark had a great voice and was a “karaoke king.” All the ladies wanted him once he sang, “Love is All Around” by Wet, Wet, Wet (originally done by the Troggs) and I was so proud to be the lady of the romantic singer with the great voice that night.